This blog describes my 24-day traverse of the Pyrenees from Atlantic to Mediterranean, July 2011.
The Pyrenean Haute Route is around 800km with 42,000 metres of ascent.

Map of the route | Schedule

Stages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Nearly there

With just over 48 hours before kick off, my biggest concerns are:
  • Remembering not to forget anything 
  • Remembering not to take too much
  • Fear that my feet will become trashed with blisters after Day 1
Every time I've done a long hike with a tent my feet have been agony after a couple of days. I've done a bit of reading, and perhaps the best way forwards is to tape my toes with duct tape right from the start.

http://www.fixingyourfeet.com/Taping-for-Blisters.html

I'll practice tonight to see if I can wrap my toes with duct tape, without causing lumpy bits that dig in.

It would be nice to avoid the mind-blowing, excrutiating foot pain I suffered when hiking the GR11 and GR20.

Normally I get blisters on my smallest 2 toes on each foot by the end of Day 2, which then become very painful for the rest of the trip.

I'm not sure if the type of sock makes much difference?

Still to do:
  • Get currency
  • Charge camera batteries and check out extra xD card
  • Investigate spare mobile phone battery
  • Add new headtorch batteries
  • Test duct tape theory, and possibly get more duct tape.

Monday, June 27, 2011

Final Preparations

Not long now before leaving for the HRP. 4 days and counting...

I'm more or less ready and organised, pending the usual last minute decisions.

I'm taking 2 extra things compared with the GR11 - the Camp Corsa ice axe and Kahtoola Microspikes - hence I'm trying to lose weight in other areas. I've chopped off the cover of the Cicerone Press guidebook, which loses 100g, and I've bought some titanium tent pegs, which saves another 100g. Also I'm not taking a stove or pan, which saves space and weight.

All my maps are colour photo-copied double-sided onto waterproof A4 paper. I will dispose of these en route, and likewise I will cut down the guide book as I go with a penknife, until there's nothing left of it.

I will probably leave the ice axe behind, or give it to someone travelling in the opposite direction, rather than carrying it all the way.

My biggest concern is not really knowing what the weather will be like, and whether I'll be much more exposed to the elements on the Haute Route compared with the GR11. I'm expecting the route finding and terrain to be slighty more challenging. I might buy another compass since mine was behaving very oddly at the Arrochar Alps race on Saturday.

Other things to do before leaving on Friday:
  • Get more euros
  • Re-proof and seal tent and groundsheet
  • Fine tune first aid stuff and blister plasters
  • Resealable A4 bags and freezer bags
  • Change in euros for Airport bus to Hendaye (via St Jean de Luz)
  • New socks?
  • Put new batteries in headtorch
  • Take spare duct tape
  • Camera - charge 2 batteries. Lens cloth. Take extra xD card?

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Schedule

My schedule for the Haute Route is fairly ambitious.

I plan to start on Friday 1st July at about 5.30pm, as soon as I step off the bus at Hendaye.

My return flight from Girona is booked for Monday 25th July, which gives me 23 full days (plus a few hours on the evening of 1st July) to complete the coast to coast.

I'm not sure if this is feasible, but I managed the GR11 in 23 days last year, and I'm hoping the HRP might take about the same time.

Provisional schedule:
http://chris-upson.com/HRP/HRP_Stages_v2.xls

Friday, May 27, 2011

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Re-supply points

Courtesy of this trip report, the following re-supply points have been identified:

o Hendaye: before starting; several adequate grocery stores are available.
o Arizkun: two small stores with limited, but sufficient selection.
o Les Aldudes: a surprisingly useful quick mart in the gas station.
o Col Bagargui (Irati): very small shop at the ski resort.
o Lescun: a well-stocked medium sized market.
o Candanchu: tiny Supermercado El Bozo (easily missed!)
o Gavarnie: small, but moderately well-stocked grocery
o Salardu: barely adequate small market.
o l’Hospitalet-pres-l’Andorre: barely adequate small market and deli.
o Bolquere: excellent market and great deli.
o Le Perthus: huge stores with everything you could ever want.

Postscript: In retrospect, I didn't use Hendaye, but shopped at St Jean de Luz before starting.
I found some provisions at a bar in Arizkun.
Aldudes had a well-stocked petrol station that was open on Sunday morning.
Col Bagargui had a poorly stocked shop, but was at least open.
Lescun had a good small supermarket.
I went via Col du Somport rather than Candanchu.
Gavarnie had good small supermarket.
Salardu, supermarket was small but OK. I was lucky to catch it open, since it shuts at 1.15pm for the afternoon.
Hospitalet was disappointing. There was nothing open except a hotel.
Bolquere had a good small supermarket that was shut when I arrived, but opened at 4pm.
Arles-sur-Tech had good Spar supermarket that was also shut, but opened at 3pm.
Le Perthus was an absolute grim dump of a town. I would strongly recommend passing straight through without stopping if at all possible. I did eventually find a supermarket that seemed mainly to sell large volumes of cheap alcohol. That tells you all you need to know about the place.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Friday, February 4, 2011

Maps

I've now acquired the 10 maps required for the HRP, published by Rando Editions at 1:50,000:

1. Pays Basque Ouest, Carte No.1
Hendaye - Arizkun

2. Pays Basque Est, Carte No.2
Aldudes - Refuge de Belagua

3. Bearn, Carte No.3
Lescun - Candanchu - Refuge de Pombie - Refuge Wallon - Refuge de Baysselance

4. Bigorre, Carte No.4
Refuge Wallon - Refuge de Baysselance - Gavarnie - Heas - Parzan

5. Luchon, Carte No.5
Biados - Hospital de Benasque - Hospital de Vielha

6. Pica d'Estats, Carte No.22
Hospital de Vielha - Salardu - Pla de Boet

7. Haute-Ariege, Carte No.7
Port de Bouet (Andorra) - l'Hospital pres l'Andorre - Refuge des Bouillouses

8. Cerdagne-Capcir, Carte No.8
l'Hospital pres l'Andorre - Refuge des Bouillouses - Eyne - Refugi de Ull de Ter

9. Canigou, Carte No.10
Refugi de Ull de Ter - Canigou - Amelie les Bains

10. Roussillon, Carte No.11
Amelie les Bains - Col du Perthus - Banyuls-Sur-Mer

Pyrenean Haute Route

Also known as the Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne, or HRP for short.

The route is much the same length as the GR11, ie. around 800km, however the stats indicate slightly more climbing, with a bit over 40,000 metres, and the route is not waymarked to anywhere near the same extent, so route finding could be a bit more tricky.


View Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne in a larger map